Flat Pattern Drafting

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Flat Pattern Drafting

Unit Description

Pattern drafting is a skills-based unit and will allow learners to demonstrate they have the necessary skills to be able to use flat pattern drafting competently and develop an understanding of the role this plays in the design and make sector of the fashion industry It is important that those working in these areas of design and construction within the fashion industry, understand the principles of basic pattern drafting.

This unit explores the processes of pattern drafting, and is relevant to learners wishing to develop their knowledge and provide solutions for design problems. On completion of the unit, the learner will understand the need for the terminology associated with pattern drafting, Students will be taught how to produce patterns that may be more technically complex, as well as developing the knowledge and skills to produce these.

The learner will be able to construct basic pattern drafting techniques from standard blocks, in full scale and include a range of design details and style requirements. The learner will be able to adapt these for their own designs and understand and recognise construction lines on pattern blocks, how to position pattern markings, dart manipulation and include relevant sizing information, including taking and using own measurements.

Project briefs for this unit should stimulate and motivate the learner to develop and adapt pattern drafting skills and should include the terminology and language used within this specialist field. Learners should look to historic and contemporary fashion to develop and gain an understanding of historic design features and details as well as new shapes and proportions in contemporary fashion design.

The unit should encourage students to be aware of the need for accuracy when drafting patterns and lay planning for single garments, lay planning and costing. (CAD should be referred to only and included in further study courses.)

This underpinning knowledge together with the other specialist units within this qualification, including garment construction and sewing techniques, are essential for learners vocational understanding. The unit is relevant to learners wishing to further develop their skills and provide a foundation for a higher level of study.

Learning Outcomes

On completion of this unit the student will be able to:

  1.  Produce flat pattern drafts from various standard blocks, including construction lines and pattern markings.
  2.  Draft flat pattern adaptations for a variety of style requirements
  3.  Produce a full-scale, finished pattern from own design and measurements.
  4.  Present a collection of patterns including manipulations and developments in working file /PORTFOLIO.

Unit Content

1. Develop a range of flat pattern drafts from various standard blocks, include construction lines and pattern markings

Demonstrates the proper method of taking measurements for garment construction:

  • Use of Size sharts
  • Methods of taking measurements – Learners take their own body measurements with the assistance of other learners / use tailor’s dummy.

Identifies and discusses the criteria in selecting commercial patterns:

  • Pattern types/sizes
  • Body types
  • Sewing experience
  • Time available
  • Style

Understand the terminology in flat pattern drafting

  • basic blocks
  • full scale
  •  Flat pattern drafting blocks from own measurements
  • adaptations Use appropriate tools and equipment

Flat pattern drafting materials

  •  Pattern master, grading square, metre ruler
  •  tracing wheel
  •  scissors
  •  pattern paper
  •  French curve
  •  pattern notcher
  •  tape measure

Flat pattern drafting techniques and process:

Understand the use of standard size basic blocks

  •  bodice
  •  skirt
  • Dress
  •  Sleeve
  •  Trouser
  • Jacket
  •  Coat

Understand the fit of all the component parts of standard blocks:

  •  Construction information CAART-406-1614
  •  construction lines
  •  seam allowance
  •  balance marks
  • grain lines
  • notches
  •  dart manipulation

Understands the importance and variety of information that may be found on commercial pattern envelope
Transfers information to enable sample construction
Estimates of fabric required

Add volume to flat pattern drafting

  •  fastenings
  •  gathers
  • pleats
  • pin tucks

2 Draft flat pattern adaptations for a variety of style requirements

2. Flat pattern adaptations

  • style requirements
  • sizing, full size, scale
  • measurements

3. Style requirements

  • Bodice, tank, round neck, slash neck,
  •  trousers. jeans, hipsters, cropped, wide leg, hip pockets, waistbands
  •  skirts maxi, mini, A-line, kilt, straight and pencil, back vent, patch pocket
  • Shirts, gents, blouse, cuffs, concealed button stand
  • sleeves. cap, 3/4 length, set in, dropped shoulder, raglan
  •  Dresses, tank, shift, sheath, princess line
  • round neck, slash neck . Jackets, blazer, bomber, fitted.welt pocket,
  • Coats, Double breasted, patch pockets CAART-406-1614 Page | 7
  • Collars, peter Pan, Eton, gents, ruffled
  •  Pleats, inverted, all around, box 3 Produce a full-scale, finished pattern from own measurements and design idea
  • Finished pattern
  •  Manipulating various standard size blocks
  •  adapting various blocks for style requirements
  • Include all relevant information
  • notches, seam lines, grainlines, CF, CB, darts
  •  include all relevant cutting information
  • cut on fold, labels, name of design 4 Present a collection of patterns including manipulations and developments in working file /PORTFOLIO
  • Gather research on styles and details from various eras
  • Include sketches on style details and shapes
  • Annotate all work

Guidance for teaching and assessment


This is a Skills based Unit where learners are required to demonstrate they have the skills to be able to use standard size blocks for flat pattern drafting competently and as a consequence a large number of practical teaching demonstrations should be adopted.

To be able to use these techniques independently, learners should have as much hands on practical experience as possible to ensure that they can work effectively and efficiently with the full range flat pattern drafting techniques in a practical context.

At this level it is essential that learners are introduced to the terminology and sizing used in flat pattern drafting, to enable the learner to draft a pattern to a particular size.

Lectures, demonstrations and discussions should be presented to learners to enable them to gain an in depth knowledge and understanding of how blocks are manipulated for flat pattern drafting and style requirements.
The theory of block manipulation should be framed in an industrial context. Practical skills should be project based where learners can use flat pattern drafting techniques for CAART-406-1614 real life design briefs. Learners should be encouraged to explore a variety of style requirements to broaden their skills, knowledge and understanding of flat pattern drafting. Learners are also encouraged to look at CAD as additional methods of flat pattern drafting available within the fashion industry.
Learners should be encouraged to develop critical and evaluative thinking throughout, and undertake research to enhance their knowledge and understanding in a fashion design business context

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